Bombay Sapphire crept up the Rio Guadiana on the flood, the pilot guide giving assurances that there was plenty of water in the river, just stick to the outside of the bends and stay in the middle on the straights…What we found though was a fully buoyed channel! That certainly settled nerves of the crew (Toby, Dan, Alex and Jaime) as we progressed further and further inland in the failing light.

Our target was Alcoutim; a village 20 nautical miles up the Rio Guadiana and on the Portuguese bank. Although sceptical about the potential interest to be found upriver, the crew quickly thawed as unspoilt, treelined hillsides unfolded ahead of the bow, giving respite from the monotony of the flat, calm open sea. Wind had been at a premium for a couple of days.

Anchoring in the encroaching darkness off Alcoutim we could hear the unmistakable sound of a Spanish party getting started.  The boisterous live music at a riverside bar in Sanlucar de Guadiana appeared, in typically dark Spanish style, to celebrate the anniversary of a fellow musician’s demise….A heady mix of Flamenco and folk blasted into the wee hours as we watched on. An eclectic gathering of musicians, sailors and new age types served to create a memorable evening.

We woke on Saturday morning to our first official rest day! Returning to the scene of the party (Chiringuito Guadiana) the following day for breakfast and supplies we congratulated ourselves on finding such a great spot to mark half way on our mile building 10 days. It seemed a long time ago that we slipped out into the Straits of Gibraltar heading westwards. In fact it was only 4 days…

Relaxing back on board we realised we were anchored in the ideal position to get a grandstand view the annual Guadiana 1ok kayak dash!

Thanks Sanlucar, Alcoutim and the Rio Guadiana for the welcome. It will be on my list of favourites from now on.